Winter Adventure !

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WINTER WALK ABOUT or SKI ABOUT !!
Down Hill Ski + Cross Country Ski+Hot Spring
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I have planned a winter road adventure starting from Denver, Colorado on January 30th thru March 2nd.
If you have been reading my blogs in the past you know what kind of trip it will be. As I visit each place I will report on my blog what I have found and who I have met.
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STEAMBOAT SPRINGS COLORADO
* Day 1 I have made it to Steamboat,I should say Stanley Lambchops and I have made it in one piece. My grand daughter Ella who is a second grade student at Heritage Hall Lower School,in Oklahhoma City, has sent me Flat Stanley and he needs to see the world. I understand that a bulletin board was hung above Stanley's bed by his father and during the night the board fell on top of poor Stanley and squished him flat,like a pancake, but thinner.I'll have pictures of Stanley as we visit different areas along the way. We left Denver at 6:00 am and the traffic was very light. By 7:00 am we where on top of Berthoud Pass and the temperature was 2 below. The skies were clear and the sunrise red in tint, was licking the tops of the 12,000 foot peaks, turning the whole mountain range into an unbelievable moment. By 9:00am we where crossing Rabbit Ears Pass and hundreds of snowmobilers had their machines zooming at top speed across the open fields.I was able to check into my Steamboat Springs Hotel at 10:00 am, which worked out great. I unloaded heaps of stuff and changed into my cross country clothes.Forty-five minutes out of town, a road leads to Buffalo Pass. The forest service only plows the snow for a short distance. From this point it's every man for himself taking in snowshoes, cross country skis, backcountry skis, or snow mobiles. The area is covered with aspen trees and with the mountains getting 200 inches of snow this winter, it's perfecto mundo baby! I cross country skied for four hours and the weather was very nice. I followed a trail for a while and then decided to make my own to the top of a ridge to experience a panoramic view. Going back down the mountain with cross country skis proved to be fun, if you're in to that sort of thing. The temps in downtown Steamboat were down right cold, but up on the mountain, I almost baked in all my winter clothes. I talked to a forest service fella that had a close encounter with a tree while in his snow mobile. He was loading pieces of the machine into the back of his truck. I drove to the Strawberry Park Hot Springs. Lucky for me and my truck the steep twisty road leading to the springs, was just covered in melting black mushy mud, rather then pure ice. The hot springs has that 1960's hippie dippy feel to it. I was taking a picture of Stanley and me next to the hot springs sign when the gate master came out to the parking lot to see what in the world I was doing. He had a hot date down by pool side so he wanted me to pay, so he could mosey on back down there. I had to get him to hold Stanley while I fished for my wallet, but Stan didn't seem to mind. The springs has a log cabin for changing your clothes, with curtains dividing off each section, into six little spaces. I lost my balance and grabbed the curtain when I had one pant off and the other leg caught and I thought I was going to pull down the whole contraption. It would have been quite the sight, six semi naked people all rolled up in a curtain! There were four pools of steaming hot water. The hottest must have been 106 degrees and then to the coldest which was the creek, probably 50 degrees. The pool was constructed of native stones and the floors where lined with soft sand, very nice. A hot spring came right out of the hill side to provide the water. In fact that was the only rule, don't climb up the rocky hill, and mess with the scorching water. After dark it's nude bathing for those folks that want to let it all hang out! EASY STOMACH DON'T TURN!! Tomorrow I go down hill skiing yipeeee! I can see the ski run from my bath room window, almost like seeing Russia. A bus will pick me up right in front of the motel, what service!
On the 150 mile ride over to Steamboat and sitting in the hot springs with Stanley, I got to know him a lot better. Stan was nervous when he found out about nude bathing, to him it would be like a blank sheet of paper! His biggest fears, not in any particular order are paper cuts, being creased and after getting older being left by a phone and used as a grocery list or a message about a DR's. appointment for gout!! I found out why Stanley was so excited about coming with me on this month road trip, a boy had used Stan as a book marker. Oh Lordy, I thought I would never hear the end of that, it was a book with out pictures and had little tiny print. When we drove by a body piercing shop, Stan just sat back in his seat, I guess just the sound of a stapler, especially in the hands of a nervous boy sends Stanley over the edge. At least Stanley slept well last night, I have to keep him out of direct sunlight ( even though he is acid free) and strong winds. I guess that's why he tightens his seat belt when he opens the truck window!
* Jan 31 day 2 Stan and I woke up to snow falling, well we did come for skiing da! A bus came and picked us up right in front of the motel, and took us right to the ticket window of Steamboat Ski. For $105.00, Stan thought we had bought part of the mountain but I told him we just helped somebody make their boat payment! The ski area is huge with almost 3,000 acres of skiable land. We rode the gondola up to the half way point of the mountain. Then we got off and rode a open lift to the summit at Storm Peak, which fit the description today. Visibility of 100 feet and falling snow made for some interesting skiing. Everybody looked like ghosts with brightly colored outfits due to the fog. By lunch time I found my way back to the gondala station and sat at a table and nursed a cup of hot chocolate for 45 minutes. Looking at the trail map a tad closer,I found a slope that was blue with some nice long runs. I did this slope five times in a row and then continued down the mountain, to a bus back home.
After a quick change at my motel, Stan and I drove to the Old Town Hot Springs. There are four different size and temp. pools. There is also a lap pool that has warm water. Even though I swim like a rock tied to an anchor I managed to swim laps for 30 minutes. Back in the pools I met a few locals that come to the hot springs quite often. Wyatt and Sarah almost took notes when I told them about the different places I had hiked and biked. I better go, Stan is a little upset, he was watching TV and there was a commercial for Charmen toilet paper and he thinks it was his cousins
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Steamboat Springs is a ski resort town set in the Colorado Rockies but with a cowboy flair to its' moods. After a day of downhill skiing I’ll hit the natural hot springs. Two world famous hot springs are found here,one is in town and the other called Strawberry Hot Springs is located outside of town and is the one I will visit.
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JACKSON HOLE WYOMING
Jackson Hole is a western town that lies against the Grand Tetons. Large elk herds are known to winter in the valley and can be seen from a viewing platform. After downhill skiing I’ll pick up Pam my wife, at the airport. Pam and I will take a dog sled team into Granite Hot Springs.
*DAY 3
Feb 1st: Last night I went to dinner at an old friend's house in town. Pete and his family are living the good life skiing and snowmobiling and doing lots of hard work to pay for all of it. Their 10 year old son Jacob, who has been playing the violin for five years put on a classic show-and it wasn't Little Brown Jug!
This morning Stan and I awoke to 3 below zero and falling snow, so we got on the road by 6:00 am. We drove through some blinding ground blizzards when we entered Wyoming.I couldn't wait to get on I-81 because I was under the false hopes that it would be clear-WRONG!! The ground blizzards combined with millions of semi-truck tires turned the freeway into an ice skating rink 100 miles long. You know it's bad if the big trucks are only doing 30 mph. I saw a sign that said Rock Springs 16 miles and the road almost by magic cleared. I stopped at a McDonald's for some hot chocolate and to ungrip the steering wheel for a few minutes. I met two older men who were born and raised here. Rich's father came to the area from Spain in 1918 and Herman's dad came from Austria during the same time period. I couldn't imagine coming to wind blown Wyoming from beautiful Austria. His dad's name was John,and was a barrel maker,but people called him Pedro which means barrel maker in Austria. Rich's dad worked in the local coal mines but was killed falling into a mine machine,before Rich was born.
After talking with these fine gentlemen, I drove north without the glare ice and had dry roads all the way. The closer I got to Jackson Hole the more beautiful it became. Big Horn Sheep and Elk dotted the hill sides as I took in the scenery. By 3:00 pm I had checked into the Super 8 at Jackson Hole and dropped my gear and then off I went. First stop was the visitor center to find out about the Elk Refuge. The center is done very nicely with lots of interesting items and people. I drove to the refuge and there must of been a thousand elk in the open fields between two mountain ranges. A homesteader's cabin sat on the edge of the field,set up for a Kodak moment.A sharp pointed mountain made for a dramatic back drop in the distance.
Then I drove back to town to take some pictures of town scenes. The center park is entered through four gates made of discarded elk antlers and the gates are 14 feet tall and 12 feet wide, it's massive. Around the gates I noticed a group of Japanese students who were holding up signs that read FREE HUGS!! I took two since the students said they where free!! Stan took one! Then I saw a movie poster for True Grit starting in 5 minutes, so Stan and I strolled in and enjoyed ourselves.
After watching the western movie and talking with my two new friends, Rich and Herman, Stan had some revelations to talk to me about. He believes in "re-in-card-ation,at which I said, "you mean reincarnation", "not in my case, it would be card!" Stan said. He told me as we drove through Baggs Wyoming he remembered back when he was a wanted poster in the 1800's for the Wild Bunch! Butch and the gang would use Stanley to get inside information, where ever he was posted, especially banks and post offices. Stan wanted to go with Sundance and Butch to Bolivia but they didn't want their picture passed around in South America!
#Day 4: Stan and I woke up to a chilly morning of 24 below zero!! The sun made the outside look warmer so we put on three layers of clothes and headed to the Jackson Hole Ski area, and I am so glad we did. On top of the mountain it was 24 above and we had wonderful-perfect-outstanding views as we got off the gondola. The views were so good that after skiing I drove back to the motel and got my camera. The area has something for everybody with some cliff jumping thrown in for good measure. We skied until 3:00 pm and that gave just enough time to pick up Pam at the airport.
Stan told Pam that he would rather put his hand in a paper shreader than jump off one of those cliffs!
* DAY 5 Pam, Stan and I awoke to tad warmer temps 16 below zero! At 8:00 am our ride arrived to take us to the event of a life time, a dog sled ride to a hot springs! Jackson Hole Iditarod at 1-800-554-7388 is the way to go for us greenies that have never even seen a dog sled. The van that picked us up was full of guests that were just as excited as we were. A couple from North Carolina, Tim and Kara,who happened to be on their honeymoon where going to do the full day with us. A group of six Mexicans from Mexico City with cute kids were going to do the half day. After a short van ride along side some beautiful cliffs and beside a partially frozen river we arrived at dog heaven. 150 Alaskan Huskies and three guides met us at the dog kennel-slash office. Three sickly older dogs where being taken care of with tender loving care. In the same meeting room we learned a few basic mushing skills for nonmushers. The room smelled of wet dogs, protein rich dog food and my socks that I hadn't changed since I left Denver! I didn't mind the smell but the smaller kids had their noses covered with woolen mittens. Every type of warm clothing was offered for those guests that needed to add to their wardrobe. The outfits would have made a polar bear green with envy!
Amanda, one of the most experienced guides was luckily assigned to our group. Once on the outside of the kennel we came face to face with our four legged pulling machines, the huskies!Each of the dogs has its' own doggy house made out of giant recycled wooden spools,that at one time held electric wire. A small door was cut into the spool, then straw was packed inside for the dogs to bed down on. As Amanda hooked up the six dogs to Pam and my sled she told us about the in's and out's of dog mushing. She pointed to a rubber mat that was covered with short spikes that was going to be used to slow down the dogs by me standing on it and dragging it in the snow. Then she pointed out the metal bar that held two long spikes that would be our braking system. The basic training took all of two minutes which is usually the length of my attention span anyway!
The dogs where so excited about getting out on the trail that they were jumping straight up into the air, but fortunately they were lashed to a lead rope or they might have floated into the sky. Amanda was with the lead team and we followed, with an occasional burst of energy from our dogs as they tried to pass the other team. The trail worked its' way through the Bridger-Teton National Forest and it was breath taking to say the least. We stopped every once in a while to rest the dogs and take pictures for those poor devils back home who only dream of handling a dog team. As a kid growing up during the past century I always dreamed of handling a dog sled, just like Sargent Preston of the Yukon!
Now it was time for Pam,the Princess Puppy Pusher to take over and for me to climb into the sled and act like cargo. The look on her face was priceless as the dogs seemed to respond to her touch. It's hard to describe but it is something of a simple pleasure to be standing on those sled runners and to have the dogs pull us along with the brisk air in your face. As I was trying to fall asleep last night I could still feel the crunchy snow under the runners of the sled and could feel the dogs pulling my inner soul onward, over hill and dale!
By afternoon we arrived at the Granite Hot Springs with much anticipation from all the mushers. Even though the temperatures were in the teens the bright sun reflecting off the snow made it bearable. I might mention the only way to get into the hot springs area during the winter is by dog team or snowmobile. We all headed to the clean changing rooms and within minutes had towels hanging over our shoulders ready for the 112 degree natural hot springs coming out of the snow covered rocks. The whole pool bathing area had been built by the CCC during the depression of the 1930's. It has been recently updated, but the steaming hot water still comes directly out of a rock wall,like it has been since time began. The pool is five feet deep on one end and two feet deep where the seasoned dog team drivers entered. Amnada let us soak in the hot springs so long that my fingers turned into prunie appendages!
We all went down to a picnic table covered with a bright table cloth- these mushers know how to serve a meal! Pam and I had trout and Tim and Kara had steak and trout. A tricky raven had flown down from its' perch and snatched away Tim's steak while Amnada was calling for us to come and get it. The dirty bird had also managed to take the lid off a Tupper ware container and sample our dessert of carrot cake. We managed to get a steak off a snowmoblier who was leading a group into the same pool, so it was no big lose.
The sled ride home was relaxing and we got to take in the grand scenery in reverse. We all had small stories to swap when we returned about our favorite dogs and unforgetable views. By 4:00 pm we were back in Jackson Hole proper, then Pam and I jumped in the truck and started the drive to West Yellowstone. Both of us couldn't quite believe the opportunity we where lucky enough to experience!
I forgot to mention about Stan, he really fell in love with all the dogs, except when they tried to use his leg like a fire hydrant!
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WEST YELLOWSTONE MONTANA
* Day 6 Feb 4th Today Pam and I were dressed for bear as we waited for our snow coach that would take us into Yellowstone National Park. The temperatures hung around 20 degrees which is short sleeve weather when we think of the north country! The bright yellow snow coach from the Buffalo Bus Co. showed up right on time. Old Tim, as he liked to be called took our park passes and driver's licenses, with the idea of getting us all through the West Yellowstone park gates faster. By 9:00 am our group of ten were staring out the window of our mobile transport, with a sharp eye for any type of walking and crawling critter. Our van was decked out with tractor cleats where the tires should be,perfect for the roads covered with four feet of snow. Our pathway would be shared with snowmobiles and buffaloes, not necessarily in that order. The river ways would host most of the animals that we would see, since the water is warmed by thermal activity and keeps the grass visible for the critters to eat. The Madison River held groups of Trumpeter Swans and their youngsters(signets).The snowy white adults with the darker adolescents made for a wonderful way to start our tour.The group spotted a bald eagle on a dead tree and further down the road a hugh nest.There were elk walking along the rivers edge eating the visible grasses. We found out that the elk's hide is waterproof and the cold river water protects them from wolves jumping across to attack. Within the hour a huge bull bison wandered out onto the snowy roadway, right in front of our snow coach. The animal must have weighed a ton and walked very slowly like he didn't have to worry about anybody messing with him, which he didn't. Our first stop was at the Madison Junction which offered a place to use the bathroom and buy some warm drinks. Groups of snowmobilers mingled with snow coaches. The snowmobile groups all have to be accompanied by a guide. In the past years snowmobilers could drive their machines where ever they wished with no restrictions.
Next we drove to the upper and lower falls of the Yellowstone River, well not exactly to the falls, more like the overlooks that held the grand views of the falls. Each stop was better than the last,due of the angle of view and the amount of ice that had formed on each.
We drove to Canyon Village and used the visitor center as a place to eat our picnic lunches. Then we headed over to Norris Geyser Basin which is known for its' numerous geothermal activities. Hot water pools with green and blue thermophils were very interesting. The layers of frost that had formed on the tree branches from steam vents made for a Christmas type scene.
By three o'clock it was time to ride our vehicle back to the town of West Yellowstone. It was a treat and a different experience to visit Yellowstone in the winter.
Stan was jumping up and down in his seat when he saw our motel. When I asked him why, he told me that the buffalo were so big he thought he might get stepped on and get even flatter! The most exciting part of the day for Stanley was watching the bubbling hot water come out of the ground, but knowing he wouldn't have to take a bath in it.
* Day 7 Feb 5th Let it snow, let it snow, everybody sing! Pam, Stan and I awoke to heavy falling snow. Stan said it was like someone had put him between two pieces of white paper! We had reserved a snowmobile tour for today, with the Yellowstone Park as a destination. A guide would be with our group of eight riders, since that is park policy. We walked through calf deep snow on the way down to the rental agency, and that snow fall was just from breakfast. The friendly weather man told us on the telie that the snow would stop by mid morning, so we had our fingers crossed. Stan said he didn't like to cross anything, it leaves creases.
Pam and I were the lone renters at 7:45 am and I wondered if anybody else was going to be brave like us or be smart and not show up this morning. A girl helped us with all the gear, heavy snow suits,helmets, boots, and gloves. The girl behind the counter had to go in the back room and get a helmet that would fit my fat head of size 8,I think they took it off a Halloween pumpkin decoration. By the time Pam and I were ready to take on all of what Yellowstone had to throw at us, a mob of guests showed up. Helmets, jackets and mittens were being thrown around in a blinding fury. Pam and I walked outside to meet our guide Troy and also to introduce him to Stan. Troy couldn't have been more helpful with snowmobile instructions and concern for our safety.
Within minutes after the last questions were answered, we were following Troy through downtown West Yellowstone in our screaming snowmobiles. We had to obey all the traffic laws the same as if we were driving cars.We then made a turn towards the east and entered Yellowstone National Park. Snow was still falling but we were prepared with clothes on that Admiral Perry wishes he had when he conquered the North Pole. What a rush it was having the strong machine under us, as it ate up the snowy pathways. Around every corner Troy had something interesting to tell us or some animal to point out. We saw a Bald Eagle in the first fifteen minutes of travel. The bison we drove by yesterday in the snow coach were 75 feet away, but today due to such heavy snow these buggers were right on the roadway, it being easier for them to use to get from one place to the other. They were within petting distance,if you had a death wish! Bison kill more people in Yellowstone than bears do.We were warned not to be deceived by their slow pace, since they are capable of moving very fast if provoked.
The snow machines made seeing the different sights a lot more fun, as we zoomed along the snowy highway at 35 to 45 mph. By mid morning the sun broke through the snowy clouds and blue skies greeted us. Gibbons Waterfall was a sight to behold with a frozen side and the other side with the river pouring over it. Before lunch we stopped at an area of geysers, fumerals and mud pots or paint pots as they are called.The paint pots looked like a supernatural being was cooking a heavy dinner of dry wall mud. The hot water deep beneath the earth is working it's way up to the surface through the grey mud. Every now and then we could hear a popping and then a gurgle as steam came rushing through this mass of mud.
For a lunch spot Troy picked Old Faithful, the geyser that sends hot water hundreds of feet into the air every couple of hours. After parking our machines we made a mad dash for the viewing spot and we were not disappointed. After the water show we all walked over to the grill and ate our lunch. After lunch we visited the brand spanking new visitor center and book store with displays explaining the scientific theories of this geologic park.
We got back on the snowy trails with our trusty machines and with a sharp eye out for critters of the forest. Bison were everywhere to be seen and admired. It is difficult at this time of year to get enough nutrition. Along the Madison River a Bobcat came down to the rivers edge, hoping for a lunch of wild duck. A pair of Bald Eagles sat on the top of a dead tree and seemed to wave goodbye to us as we zoomed back to West Yellowstone.
Stan really liked Old Faithful with its' towering surge of hot water. I had to hide his swim suit because he had plans on sitting over the geyser hole and waiting for the surge of hot water to send him skyward. Kids today! I don't know where they get these ideas! But then Stanley told me he saw a kid shoot a spit wad out of a straw and thought he could use the geyser to do the same thing.
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BOZEMAN MONTANA
*Day 8 Feb 6th Pam flew home today from Bozeman Mt.in a snow storm. Stan and I drove to Big Sky ski area during the same snow storm. The area is large, huge with many ski runs. The ticket at this resort cost $81.00 but with my plastic, flicky door opener thingy from my motel room I was told by the motel manager I would get a discount of 10%. The clerk at the ticket window said no, I can only take off $10.00. Stan said this must be some sort of cowboy math equation, that we liked!The traffic was lite on our drive to the ski site especially when you compare it to the drive up I-70 to a Colorado ski area on a Sunday! When I got to the slopes I noticed there were no waiting lines to get on the lifts. Bozeman and the surrounding area doesn't have the population that Denver supports.
The weather was snowy when I started skiing but then the snow stopped and the temperatures dropped to 5 below zero, not short sleeve temps! There was a warming hut on top of the main mountain which made a nice stop to hang out for a few minutes of warmth. On the chair lifts I met skiers from all over the United States. The main mountain had a tram leading to the top, which I would have taken had I been able to see better. With snow falling and a low cloud cover the ski trip down was a tad bit difficult on the 50 degree slopes. The mountain looked very high to Stan and he was already starting to get a nose bleed! I wanted to use a Kleenex but Stan said he didn't want to stick his cousin up his nose, which I can identify with!
On the drive back to Bozeman the roadway had a warning sign about animals on the highway. With waist deep snow along the sides of the highway I wondered what type of animals would be waundering around looking for food. As I drove around a corner I noticed a group of people trying to free a huge Big Horn sheep stuck in the deep snow bank. I think someone sent for a crane to lift this fella out, his horn's were massive.
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GARDNER MONTANA
* Day 9 Feb 7th Ok this is starting to sound like a broken record but Stan and I woke to snow falling again. This is going to be an easy day anyway with us just driving over to Gardiner, MT. This is the gateway to the northern top part of Yellowstone National Park. After packing the truck for our move, we drove to the Musuem of the Rockies. The musuem is chuck full of dinosaurs, or what is left of them in the form of fossils. The state of Montana is known for many dinosaur fossil discovery sites. The building looked brand new and the exhibits were outstanding! The scenes showed dinosaurs from egg stage to maturity. The display cases illustrated very well how the reptiles evolved into birds.
Since Native American's lived in the area for thousands of years, the musuem had a great section dedicated to them. Then I walked into the section of early Montana pioneers showing their weapons, farming equipment, you name it,it was there. Since I was from Denver, the old 1930 Buick touring car caught my eye. A company had used it to transport guests to the top of Pikes Peak, Co.
I sat in my truck to have lunch and noticed that the snow was getting heavier. I walked back into the museum because the Taylor Planetarium was putting on a show about the sun. Scientist that study the sun from Montana State University did all the ground work for this light show. Stan wanted to know how a person could study something you can't look at directly with out burning your eyes out. Luckily he didn't ask that question. When the lights went out as we sat in those comfortable seats,that was all she wrote for Stan and me. The only thing we remembered was the lights going back on! I am glad the scientists didn't ask any questions about what we had seen, because I would have to explain what the inside of my eye lids looked like during that time period.
It's only 75 miles from Bozeman to Gardiner- piece of cake right! A major storm blew in while Stan and I were catching up on our beauty sleep. Bozeman had just heavy wet snow but when we drove up onto I-90 the wind was howling with heavy snow coming down. We could see maybe 50 feet with the worst conditions being on Bozeman Pass. The visibility was so bad that I could barely see the hood of the truck. An occassional fool with a death wish would pass the long line of slow moving vehicles. We were glad to get off the interstate and take a secondary road for the last 50 miles to Gardiner.
After topping off the gas tank for extra weight and in case we were going to be stranded in the truck, we slide back onto the road. The road way was just covered with inches of snow but tons of the white fluffy stuff were creating a blizzard conditions. I put on my four way flashers and crept along averaging 35 mph, when we were lucky. Occassionaly the road way disappeared completely and then the truck slowed to 5 mph. After 2 hours of working our way along the frozen waste land, the sign for Gardiner appeared out of the swirling snow.
We checked into our motel after swapping traveling stories with the clerk. Another fella was sitting in the lobby for awhile. I noticed he had a camera with a lens as long as your arm. Yesterday, as he was leaving the park a pack of coyotes were all hanging around the big stone gate at the entrance. He took a series of pictures of the pack all howling with their mouths in the air, then more with them rubbing against each other. The pictures were unbelievable to say the least. We have two days here, just exploring Yellowstone Park,and the great pictures got me really excited.
After getting settled in, Stan told me he had never seen weather like we had driven through, but he wasn't scared, even though he was thinking about his future a lot! I told him the story of Pam's uncle who was a doctor during WWII. Uncle Bill was stationed in Darwin, Australia as the the doc. for the air corp. These flyers would have to fly long distances and when they got back to base their nerves could be a little frayed. Uncle Bill would have shots of pure grain alcohol lined up along the bench where the fly boys would change. The strong spirits did the trick for moral adjustment! After the story Stan said he couldn't wait to be 21 years old, especially if it's during the winter in Montana!
*Day 10 Feb 8th Well another day in paradise boys and girls, that's what Stanley is telling me after a good night's sleep. We drove into the north entrance of Yellowstone National Park. Stan loved the huge stone archway that welcomes everyone into one of the greatest geological parks on earth. Within minutes we saw our first elk. We drove into the parking area that leads us to a natural hot springs. All of the hot water that over flows at the Mammoth Hot Springs travels underground for about 5 miles until it merges with the Gardiner River. When the underground stream reaches day light it becomes the Boiling River, which will scald any fool that touches it. The boiling hot water combines with the near freezing water of the Gardiner and this is where the rangers have made pools out of river rocks and it's safe to soothe your sore body. One problem is that the Gardiner River isn't flowing high enough to cover one of Stanley's toenails and also the temperature was 5 degrees.It made me think I couldn't get out of my clothes fast enough or back into them before body parts snapped off! The Boiling River has created a unique eco system for the whole valley. Green plants were still growing in the river. A small herd of elk seemed to enjoy this little piece of paradise also.
I drove to the Mammoth Hot Springs and was able to talk to a ranger who knew everything there is to know about cross country ski trails in YNP. He told me about a trail that would lead me up to Snow Pass and then onto Bunsen Peak Trail for a distance of 16 miles. My new friend mentioned that a group of 9 cross country skiers had a 45 minute head start. Due to all of the snow yesterday, these poor buggers would have to break trail.
After spending a few minutes making sure that I was truly was on the right trail, I started up the snowy path. I had climbing skins on the bottoms of my skis, which help grip the snow on the steep parts. As the trail worked its' way up to the pass I observed a few hot springs and great views of the valley below. The strong smell of sulfur and bellowing steam made Stan tell me that I may end up in a place like this if I don't behave. At the pass I entered the Swan Valley, which was five miles long. I noticed tracks in the snow coming off a mountain side and then I noticed large black rocks setting out in the valley floor. These rocks were moving and had large horns. A small group of bull buffalo were using their large heads to move the waist deep snow to get to the grass below. The critters would sweep their heads back and forth like a snow plow. In a grove of pine trees was another set of buffalos and these two were butting heads, Stan said it looked like the Super Bowl all over again! I thought while they were busy I would ski a little closer and get a better picture. These two monster stopped immediately and looked like they wanted to try my hard head as a battering ram. I skied on just as fast with an occasional look in my rear view mirror. At this point I heard what sounded like a howl of a wolf and saw a dark figure run over the next hill. Stan thought I had watched Dances with Wolves one to many times, but a ranger told me the wolves had killed an elk in the area.
I crossed the road that leads to Norris and followed an old road bed. I could see my trail breakers ahead of me. Next a couple from Idaho skied out of the trees and we stopped to talk. I was ready for lunch and the couple didn't want to stop and freeze to death so they carried on. After lunch I caught up with them and we skied down hill for maybe two miles along the old road way. There was actually an old road sign mentioning a steep and twisting road ahead. We all had a good time trying to keep on the track and not ski off into the bottomless canyon.
At trails end I caught up with the 9 skiers and hitched a ride back to my truck. The rest of the afternoon I spent looking for critters and a new ski trail.
**Day 11 Feb 9th This morning the skies were clear but the temperature was 20 below zero. Down the road the temps hit 45 below zero! My poor truck started very slowly, but it did start. I drove to Black Tail Deer road with the idea of cross country skiing the closed road. The plateau above the road looked like a better place to have a view of the country side. I followed the ridges and didn't find much snow, which made it easier to ski. With all the fresh snow, animal tracks were all around the mountains. I noticed a coyote running along a distant ridge and then he jumped on top of a rock. I skied up to the rock and noticed a set of antlers from a elk, where he had shed them. I found so many shed antlers on that hill I lost count. I found a matched set with 6 points on each side!
I thought I could hear a wolf howling in the distance, but I couldn't locate it. I skied over the next ridge and noticed a herd of 8 bull elk and the same amount of bull buffalo. Then I heard the howl again in the distance and noticed a lone wolf running along a distant ridge. Within minutes a pack of 10 wolves came running up the same ridge, like they were on a race. I heard another pack howl, in answer to my pack. The whole thing happened in just a few minutes, but luckily I was in the right place at the right time. Standing on top of that small hill taking in all the scenery, it was easy to imagine being an explorer here. There wasn't a man made object for miles and not a sound except for the wind. The Robin's egg blue sky and the fresh snow litered with animal tracks made it a very special time. I skied down to the next valley and I planned to follow this to the Black Tail Road.
The snow was lite, having been blown down into this valley and it was difficult to break trail with snow up to my waist. I could see a trail in the distance. At first I thought a bull buffalo had made a trail, but it was somebody snowshoeing. The trail went up through the trees and along a creek and it was alot easier to take it than to break a new trail. By lunch time I found the road and a herd of buffalo lying on the roadway. I gave wide berth to these shaggy devils. I followed the road and noticed all kinds of wolf tracks. I realized that the pack was down on the road and a group of skiers had scared them in my direction.
I met a few people skiing and by 2:00 pm I had skied to the end of the road and then climbed another small hill to look for more wolves without any luck so I started to head home. By 4:00pm the wind picked up and the temps dropped real fast. I made a wrong turn and ended up on the main road and had to ski along with an occassional car whizzing by. When I got back to my truck my binding on my skies was frozen and wouldn't release. Luckily for me, I had another pair of shoes in my truck. The parking lot was icy and it was a little tricky getting out of my boots while they were still attached to my skies.
Just before leaving the park I noticed a group of big time photographers all lined up along the road. The object of their desire was Big Horn Sheep crossing the road.
When Stan and I got back in the room, Stan reminded me of the story about the Ginger Bread Man. Stanley had heard the story being read in his class room. Stan related about the part of the story where the Ginger Bread Man runs as fast as he can and gets away from everyone chasing him. Stan said if Mr. Ginger was being chased by the fast running wolves we had seen today, he would need a motorcycle.
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KALISPELL MT
** DAY 12 Feb 10th Stan and I covered the windshield last night because the morning before when it was 20 below zero, I almost needed a flame thrower to clean off the frost. This morning no frost and nice temps greeted us as we got started on our drive to Kalispell Mt. First stop would be at Bozeman to have breakfast with Fred King and his lovely wife.
After breakfast Stan and I couldn't believe the roads, not a bit of snow, slush, or ice. The speed limit was mostly 75 mph and we took full advantage of it. Within 8 hours we had driven 400 miles. Our motel for three nights is the Travel Lodge and the room is perfect and is next to the hot tub!
**DAY 13 Feb 11th Glacier National Park. This morning it's not below zero and it's not snowing!! Stan and I drove into Glacier NP with the idea of cross country skiing- Going to the Sun Road. The road is closed in the winter and with the winter snows covering the sourrounding mountains it made quite the scene. The road followed the McDonald Creek with numerous frozen waterfalls and rapids. The open water was so clear, it just took my breath away. The road is lines with cedar and white birch trees. The aroma coming off the cedars was very relaxing. The McDonald Lake was just partially frozen and there was just a few floating icebergs. A few skiers had broken a trail so it made it a lot easier to glide along the snow. By lunch time I had put 6 miles behind me when I arrived at Avalanche Creek. By this time the temps had risen just a few degrees above freezing. With higher temps the snow has a tendency to stick to the bottom of the skies. It's a big problemo because your ski will not slide so you are almost walking with skies on. I must have stopped a dozen times and scrapped the snow off with a credit card. Everybody else I met was having the same problem.
I finally make it back to my car just as the sun came out and it made McDonald Lake come alive with reflections. Stan said Yellowstone NP has more animals but Glacier has a unique beauty but softer lines.
###DAY 14 Feb 12th It's actually warm here- 51 degrees and that's not below zero boys and girls. Stan and I were going to down hill ski Big Mountain after driving north out of Kalispell for 30 miles. We could see the ski slopes from our motel window, and the mountain was big! We parked within a ten minute walk to the ticket window. The ticket price was only $64.00 which is a good deal. I rode on the lift with two Canadians, who wanted to hear all about my skiing adventures. On top of the mountain the trees were all covered with snow and ice. The monoliths of white made it look like I was skiing amoung giants. These trees are called Snow Goats, but Stan said he has never seen a goat this big. Saturday is a free ski day for all ,so it seemed like every kid in the United States was out taking lessons. I was one of the first to ski the powder after skiing past the Snow Goats. Then after a few runs all the kids invaded my space. It was a little windy on top anyway, so I skied down around the mountain and came to a poma lift, a lift where you put a pole, attached to a running cable, between your legs, and it pulls you up the mountain. Two snow boarders ahead of me had their pole come off the cable and down they went. After that I decided to ski the front part of the mountain. Ski lift #4 serviced five mountain slopes. All were steep but all had different types of terrain. I skied there until I thought Stanley was going to have to carry me to the truck.
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**DAY 15 -FEB 13TH Stan and I started out driving to Canada early, in order to get some miles behind us. The idea died when I made a wrong turn in White Fish. The road got more rocky and covered with ice, then the road ended in a snow bank! We found the right route and by 10:00 am we were crossing the Canadian border. The border patrol asked a boat load of questions, like have you or Stanley been before a judge since the age of 18 years? Luckily for Stan, I had his passport. The road and country side were free of snow. When we approached the town of Radium I noticed a blinking sign, signaling a closed road to Lake Louise. The ranger at the park entrance said the road would be closed until 5:00 pm due to an avalanche. But the road continued to Radium Hot Springs. A worker was manning a gate across the road at this point. The boss said he was picked because he was the ugliest and meanest looking,and he had successful in turning away hundreds of drivers. The only other way to go was a 550 km drive around. Stan and I decided we would soak in the 110 degree water for 2.5 hours and swim for 30 minutes in the lap pool. Within another 45 minutes the pass was opened and we drove to Lake Louise. The hostel we are staying in is a beautiful thing. Like something from Switzerland, with large beams and wooden floors. They have a full restaurant, and all for $14.00 per night. Tomorrow I cross country ski into a back country hut for 2 days so the blog will be silent.
**DAY 16-17th Feb 14th-15-16th Stan and I cross country skied into Elizabeth Parker Hut. The 12 k road was a steady climb up and then up some more! The snow was falling ever so gently but with the climb I was down to just a lite jacket. I met one couple from Wisconsin who were just skiing for the day. After three hours I found the trail to the hut. A group of 6 people were coming out so I knew the hut would be nice and warm. I unlocked the door and ventured into my home for 2 nights. There were two rooms,one the sleeping and eating quarters and the other being the cook room. 16 people can sleep here very nicely. The whole structure was built in the 1930's out of logs. The valley the hut sits in is completely surrounded by very high mountains that are covered with snow. The place is magical with many spectacular views. I just stood there in wonderment. By dinner time six doctors and one back country guide showed up. Four of the doctors were from Holland. The group was there to learn about avalanches. I skied out after dinner just to watch the sun set on the different snowy peaks.
The next day the docs had more to learn about back country travel. The guide made it sound like it was unsafe to look out the cabin windows! I skied over to the the resort hotel that is located on Ohara Lake. I skied around the lake and again I thought my neck was going to snap off with a great view at every angle. At dinner time a group of six descended into the hut. Three guys from just up the road made their appearance first. Then three younger people arrived and had had a tough time on the 12 k trail. I was out exploring when a avalanche broke loose on the mountain, it sounded like a rifle shot and then there was an echo. There was another shor and echo repeating. I was in the next mountain and could only witness the sounds.
This morning I skied back down to my truck and the shower at the hostel was a welcome sight. Stan told me that he had never seen mountains that seemed to scrape the sky. Stan really liked the cabin, especially when we all sat around the fire place and told stories. We forgot the marsh mellows but Stan had left his tooth brush in his other back pack, so it was just as well.
**DAY 18 Feb 17th Stan and I skied Lake Louise and what a great mountian that was. There is one run that is 5 miles long and it's right after you depart a nice gondola ride. The mountain has everything to offer. We got here at 9:00am and rode the gondola 3 times and did the 5 miler each time. Then the lines started to get long around the gondola so we headed over the back side of the mountain. Lots of really nice green and blue slopes. There is a share of black diamonds too, but we just hit them a few times. I met a lot of people on the chair lift and in the restaurant. They were mostly Canadians with a few Brits thrown in.
We stopped skiing at 2:00 pm to give us enough time to drive to Jasper. I met a fella at the hostel that needed a ride so I had someone to talk to for the 3 hour drive. Nick owns a kayak company on Vancover Island and since his work is mostly in the summer he was out seeing the sights. We both were going to stay at the same hostel in Jasper so it would really work out for all concerned.
The hostel is a back woods type of affair, with cold pit toilets but warm managers. Michael,wife and son. I actually was scheduled to stay at the hostel in town but this place was right on a major cross country ski trail, so I switched spots. There are a few cabins for sleeping and a main lodge for cooking, eating and gathering.
**Day 19 JASPER-Feb 18th Stan and I woke to 25 below zero, so we had to put on a few extra layers for cross country skiing. A secondary road that is closed in the winter was a good starting point. High, and I mean high pointed mountains were our companions along the path. After following the snow covered road for a mile, we turned up into the mountains towards Gerthoud Lake. The road was 6 k long with a steady rise. I actually had to shed some layers after the hills got a little steeper even with it being so cold. I came to the end of the road and a trail went off for 2 k to the lake. I tried to get out of my skis so I could put on my climbing skins, but the bindings were frozen, plus I didn't want to risk not being able to get back in them.
Tonight the hostel is full and I'll be sleeping in the reserve manager's room. Stanley says he doesn't mind that we can't take a shower or wash behind our ears. The keeping clean thing is highly over rated!

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DAY 20 Feb 19th Kamloops BC: Stan and I had a room to ourselves because the hostel was over booked and we got the manager's room. When you open the door to the outside and your hand sticks to the cold door knob, you know it's cold! If you have opened a freezer door at a super market and a cloud of frosty air blasts you in the face, that's what it was like this morning- 30 below zero again! Have you ever sat on a cold toilet seat, in a pit toilet, or have you ever wanted to, at 30 below? Stan got stuck this morning and I had to get a spatula from the kitchen, to pry the little bugger off. I learned to put everything from the truck, that doesn't do well in the subzero in the hostel. It so cold though so that when carrots freeze it's like a flash freeze, they are ok when they defrost, but I imagine they are happy to be warm again. My poor truck has been the champ through all of this, I can barely turn the ignition key, because the mechanism is frozen stiff. The truck slowly starts and then it's off to the races.
A large group like I said came to the hostel last night. One group was older and were going to do a 24 k cross country ski trip over the mountains to a maintained hut. I hope they had warm clothes. The look on their faces when they saw the hostel meeting room was priceless. The stovie and a few other things could use replacing due to many years of wear. This group was also used to the finer things in life, you could tell. The hut they were skiing to costs $200.00 per night per person-this hostel is $28.00. One woman was in charge of every aspect of the trip, I almost expected people to ask her permission to use the bathroom. She went into a ten minute lesson for my benefit about how bad fish scale skis were, which I own.
The next group was the teeny boppers and there was going to be 20 of these snow rats. Stan and I went to bed before this sweaty group took over the hostel.
We drove south to Kamloops and a little bit of warmth and a 1 hour time change.
Stan says we were so far north he thinks he heard little elves working on toys!
While we were at the grocery store Stan noticed a poster for an Old Time Fiddle dance. Then when we got back to the room Stan put on his leather bottoms dancing shoes. We showed up at the affair and there must have been thirty couples all in their 70's and 80's. This fiddle dancing group meet twice a month for fiddle playing and dancing. Members of the group take turns playing fiddle, guiter and piano, while the the other half dances. I don't mean a slow waltz either, these people moved like they were on ice skates. As soon as one note was plucked the group moved like a herd of deer onto the dance floor. They all wore red vests with there club logo. Besides the vests all the members were dressed to the nines. The women wore colorful flowing dresses and the men white shirts. A lot of the men had pointed cowboy boots embellished with silver metal toes and then their shirts had silver tipped collars.
Between dances they would come over to chat, since I didn't want to get up and dance with my two left feet. Most of the group were raised on farms in Saskatchewan during the 1920's. Most of the groups parents had come from England, Norway and Germany in the 1900's. Beth's father first arrived in Canada in 1900, and by horse and wagon went from Ontario to Saskatchen. The province was open to homesteaders for little money but hard work. 250 acres for $1.00 if you worked the land and raised a crop. Beth had 13 brothers and sisters but 3 died with in days of each other from diptheria. They didn't go to school or church except during the winter. Stan liked that part! Beth's father saved enough money to bring in a preacher-teacher combination for the winter.
Beth's father played the fiddle and her mother played the guiter. Every Saturday nite people would come to their house by horse and buggy and play music and dance. They would all sleep over and in the winter they stayed for church services. The land didn't have any streams so all the water had to be drawn from a well dug by Beth's father. Her father didn't want to go back to England even to visit but he saved enough money to bring all of his brothers and sisters to Canada. All of the farms raised wheat and cattle and planted gardens. Beth's mother would can all the extra food and have it stored in the cellar. When Beth got married in the 1940's the farm still didn't have electricity or running water. Her father lived to be 95 years old.
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**DAY 21 Feb 2oth Whistler BC// Stan and I woke to clear skies, not as cold but still below zero! We would be driving 7 hours over to Whistler from Kamloops. I am glad we were able to see Kamloops, I have often wondered what the place looked like. It's right on the Thompson River bank and has a nice presence.
On the road to Whistler the roads were dry for a change and the surrounding countryside looked a lot like Gunnison Colo., with sage brush on the hill sides. My map showed the road weaving its' way through the mountains like a serpent with the bends! My map also stated that the road to Whistler from our angle was closed in the winter. I stopped at an Indian reservation town of Lillooet and asked the grocery clerk about the road. She said it would be open unless there was an avalanche or one snow flake since it's a 16 % grade. I found Stan out by an old Indian truck trying to hot wire it, so he wouldn't have to go over the pass with me! The Seton River followed the road for many miles, with a lake at the beginning. The road was very steep and then it would descend at a 16% grade, then go up at a 13 % grade. I am glad my brakes held out! The higher we got the more snow appeared. At the highest point the road was cut through a channel of snow that was 10 feet tall. Then we started down and more down until we hit the valley below which had another Indian settlement. Then we started to see signs for the Whistler ski area. I have heard the place is massive and all the stories seem to be correct. I drove for 45 minutes and the ski area was still along the roadway. I got directions from a bus driver and he told me to drive for 8 miles down the road until we saw the sign for our hostel. I thought we are far out from the resort, no the resort is still further down.
The hostel is brand new with stainless steel everything in the kitchen. All the trim work is hardwood and the staff is very helpful and full of cheer. A bus will pick me up in front of the hostel and take me right to the mountain! Besides the fact that my room here for three nights costs what it did for one night at Kamloops!
I got to thinking about all the people that I have met so far and maybe haven't mentioned in the blog. One was the back country skier at Berthoud Pass Co. who wanted to do what I was doing but couldn't get any of his friends to leave home. The group of seventy year olds who were taking up skiing at Steamboat, and all had to show their drivers licenses at the ticket window, to prove that they were the over the hill set. The look on people's faces when we got off the gondola at Jackson Hole Wy. where there was a 360 degree view of pure beauty, plus the intimidating slope you were forced to ski to get back down! The guide at West Yellowstone who was so proud that he had lived there for 60 years and his dad help build a lot of the park buildings in the 1940's. The competetion between professional photographers at North Yellowstone, for the best animal pictures and bragging about their next assignment. Seeing the puzzlement in the people's faces when they were trying to figure a way to get a huge Big Horn Sheep out of the snow drift along the road at Big Sky. That's enough for now!
DAY 22 Feb 21st Today Stan and I awoke with the thought of skiing Whistler today, the biggest ski area in North America! We got up early in the hostel before anybody else could hog the shower. Then we fixed breakfast and lunch for the slopes,trying to bypass the expense of resort food. The bus picked us up in front of the hostel and then within 30 minutes I was plunking down some dinero for a ski ticket. A gondola wisked us up the mountain. The views would problably be fab except, yes boys and girls it was snowing, which is good for skiing but bad for sightseeing. Stan didn't think it was to funny not being able to see the surrounding mountains. I told him at least it's not 30 below zero,just 10 below. We hopped on another gondola that took us all the way across a river drainage system to the next mountain. It's supposed to be the biggest in the world! We skied until 3:00 pm but like a family said, that I met from England, it was a challenge,with flat light and fog. Stan told them if it was easy everybody would be doing it!
DAY 22 Feb 21st Stan and I had plans for some cross country skiing. The managers at the hostel told me about Callaghan, wherethe Olympics had been held. The cross country skiing, biathalon, with rifle shooting and the ski jumps were all held here. I thought it was going to be in a farmer's field but the Olympic committee put it up in Callaghan Valley. It costs $16.00 to enter the area but it was well worth the cost. There is 90 miles of cross counrty skiing trails. The jumps are still there but Stan hadn't packed his long skis so that was out. Then there was a building to eat or buy your lunch. The place had a view to die for. There were 2 fireplaces with chairs around it to kick back and relax if you wanted to. I followed the Black Diamond cross country course first and it led me high up into the mountains with a view all around. The groomed trails snake all around the forested area and you don't know where you're going to come out! I ate my lunch in the day building with a fire going in the fireplace.
After lunch I did the biathlon course,where a cross country skier not only skies 20 K but he has to shoot at five targets. The course worked its' way around the cedar forest and I ended up back at the shooting range. There was a group of American's trying their luck at shooting. These are the first Americans that I meet on this trip.
Stan was sad he had missed the Olympics by one year, but he said he was going to get in shape for the next one!
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DAY 22 BELLINGHAM WA. Feb 23rd Stan and I have sneaked back across the Canadian border! We drove around the city and looked at the hot spots, since it's a tad on the nippy side-but not below freezing. We are supposed to get some snow here tonight which is good since Mt. Baker ski area is just up the road. Today we will take in a museum and a little R&R. Tomorrow down hill skiing! Funny thing happened at the last hostel, funny unless it happens to one of us! I was laying in my bunk bed when the chap on the upper bunk bed gets a phone call from the Royal Mounted Police. He is wanted for questioning about property destruction. His girlfriend was jealous of his vacation, so she called the Mounties. The last I saw of him he was crawling out of the upper bunk and heading to the lobby of the hostel. Stan said hostel staying is cheap and interesting, you don't get that kind of entertainment at a Holiday Inn!
Stan and I have driven 3000 miles as of today.
**DAY 23 Feb 24th Stan and I drove into the Baker Mountains, home to the Mt Baker ski area. It snowed last night which isn't unusual except that a cold front made the snow very dry. The snow on Baker is usually wet and heavy, except today it was heaven sent. The skies were also clear and we could see all the mountains that skirted the area. Since I am 60 years old, my ski ticket was just $40.00. Because of the new snow all the ski runs had 8 inches of new snow on the slopes. Each run was like a gift from the ski gods. Tomorrow we head back to Denver after skiing 8 different ski areas and cross country skiing 6. What a great, perfect, wonderful trip this has been! Stan and I have seen so many sights and met so many interesting people!
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Drive back to Denver / If I am still alive!
Feb 28th-